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  • Yes, we do take cuttings from some of our rhododendrons. Take them from new growth, and place in a free draining compost – we use a bark compost because that’s closest to what they would grow in naturally. Keep them moist – you can put a plastic bag over them for a mini greenhouse effect. - Source: Internet
  • Or your rhododendrons could die of old age. Some rhododendrons at Leonardslee are 100-150 years old. ‘That’s why we have to keep propagating them and re-planting new ones.’ - Source: Internet
  • Stephen mainly plants his rhododendrons in autumn now. ‘Historically, you planted rhododendrons in either spring or autumn, but there seems to be some very dry springs happening at the moment. So we think autumn works best. Don’t plant rhododendrons in frosty weather.’ - Source: Internet
  • If you want a scented rhododendron, then they are mostly deciduous. ‘But there is a group of rhododendrons called the Loderi, which were bred here in Leonardslee Gardens in 1901. They have big showy flowers and are highly scented. - Source: Internet
  • Stephen says that they prune the azalea types with secateurs or a hedge- cutter. ‘We trim them back into the shapes we need, to keep them off paths or down to size in the historic Rock Garden. And we’ll even take a chain saw to some of the bigger, older rhododendrons. - Source: Internet
  • At Leonardslee, they have echoed the rhododendrons’ past in the mountains of Asia. ‘We’ve planted them with conifers, azaleas and primulas,’ says Stephen. ‘But you could also use a rhododendron as a focal point in a herbaceous border, especially if you have a shady spot. - Source: Internet
  • Stephen says that the Bureavii rhododendrons (Bureau rhododendrons) and the Maddeni rhododendrons come from temperate regions. ‘They have an amazing scent and will grow indoors, preferably in quite a cool room, such as a conservatory.’ - Source: Internet
  • Yes, rhododendrons can be moved. ‘We’ve moved quite a few during the renovation of Leonardslee,’ says Stephen. ‘Do it in autumn and give the plant a really good water before you start. Check which rhododendron it is – if it’s one that can be cut down, then cut it back a bit.’ - Source: Internet
  • ‘But there’s also a disease called phytophthora.’ This is one of two different fungus, which affect several trees and shrubs and are most severe on rhododendrons. The symptoms are brown, spreading lesions on leaves, wilting and dieback. - Source: Internet
  • Choose a sheltered site with dappled shade but avoid deep shade beneath trees. Dwarf alpine species will cope with full sun as long as the soil does not dry out. Avoid frost pockets and sites exposed to early morning sun, which will damage flower buds. - Source: Internet
  • Using the wrong fertiliser can lower the soil’s acidity; don’t use lime or other alkaline-based additives. Keep the soil’s pH level to about 5.5. Try to use organic fertilisers, as rhododendrons are susceptible to chemical burn. Fish or seaweed fertiliser is ideal. - Source: Internet
  • All rhododendrons are evergreen but there are two distinct types of azaleas. Evergreen azaleas (Japanese azaleas) typically grow to 40-80cm. Deciduous azaleas reach 120-150cm and lose their leaves in the autumn, often with stunning colours. - Source: Internet
  • Rhododendrons grow best in acidic soil, says Stephen. They like dappled shade or even full shade. .They don’t want a really sunny spot. - Source: Internet
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